Last weekend I went back to Ynys Lochtyn with the boyfriend to climb more of the routes we had on our wish list. We fancied a relaxed weekend by the sea, so we didn’t push ourselves too much. It was another great experience – we climbed 7 routes, spotted dozens of dolphins playing, and even had a little swim on the tiny island.
The routes we did:
- You and me, JD, HS 4a
- The day the balloon went up, S 4a**
- When you’ve got to go, HS 4b
- The deep end, VD*
- Asleep in the deep, VS 4b*
- Deep dark ocean, HS 4b*
- Saudade, S 4a
Our favourites were The day the balloon went up and the Deep dark ocean. All routes were absolutely incredible, and the rock was excellent.
I led The deep end, which was a nice route, if a little run out, especially for a VD. I was a little nervous when I realised I couldn’t find any gear for the first 5/10 meters (it was my 5th lead). I kept calm and made it to the top, only to set up an absolutely ridiculous anchor. Luckily my boyfriend climbed as if he was soloing the route!
The start of Asleep in the deep seemed a little steep and technical, but definitely enjoyable if you don’t go off route and make it impossible to climb like I did. I should have had a second good look at the guidebook.
As usual, climbing was great fun, no matter how bad I am at it.
Swimming in the bay was amazing – the clean green water was calm, so I could enjoy floating while admiring the cliffs. It was very rejuvenating (yes, it was cold but definitely warmer than The Fairy Pools or any mountain stream). I was buzzing when I got out. It was the perfect spontaneous way to celebrate the end of a great climbing day.
Tip: if you fancy swimming on Ynys Lochtyn but haven’t planned it, be sensible and keep your underwear on – quite a few walkers and boats approach the bay and headland throughout the day.